Top Questions

In response to requests from the field, we have created a list of the

Most Frequently Asked Tech Line Questions

We hope that this list will answer many of the questions commonly asked by installers and save them some time in the shop. Can't find what you're looking for? Contact our Technical Assistance Hotline at 1-866-502-0068.

What is the type and amount of refrigerant and lubricant for my vehicle?

Answer: The Original Equipment Manufacturer underhood sticker or other OEM publications are the best places to find this.

I have installed one of your compressors, accumulators and orifice tubes but the compressor is noisy. What is the problem?

Answer: There are several concerns that can make a compressor noisy:

1. Excessive high side pressure due to:

  • Poor airflow across the condenser resulting from:
    • External restriction of condenser/radiator
    • Bad fan clutch or radiator/condenser fan motor
  • Internal restriction of the condenser and/or discharge line
  • System refrigerant or oil overcharge
  • Air in the system
  • Blend refrigerants

2. Mounting brackets that are:

  • Loose, warped, cracked or broken
  • Incorrect torque or missing mounting bolts
  • Contacting a switch port plug

3. Harmonic vibration (noise) transmitting through:

  • Drive belt
    • Noise will be heard at heaviest load on drive belt (compressor)
    • Caused by other belt driven components (idler pulley, power steering pump, etc.)
  • Mis-routed discharge or suction hoses

Heater cores are beginning to leak shortly after installation. Are you having a problem with Heater Cores?

Answer: Heater core leaks and failures are usually a result of corrosion and/or erosion. This is a result of improper cleansing of the coolant system. Improper cleansing can result in electrolysis as well, which will perpetuate corrosion and erosion. When unlike metals are placed in the presence of a liquid that will carry electricity, electrolysis develops. Coolant that is contaminated and/or electrically charged will eat away at the thin skin of the aluminum, brass, or copper heater core. Corrosion and erosion can make a heater core leak in as little as a few days and repeated failures will occur until proper service is performed.

To repair, chemically neutralize and flush the coolant system as well as use the proper coolant. There are several "Cooling System Cleaners" that can accomplish the neutralization and cleansing required to properly service the cooling system. To determine the proper coolant refer to the OEM.

The fan clutch I installed does not engage/disengage properly. What is going on?

Answer: During a cold start a thermal fan clutch will engage for a short amount of time and then disengage. The fan clutch will not reengage until the air temperature coming through the radiator exceeds 180 degrees Fahrenheit. If cooling problems exist it could be the internal condition of the radiator, dirty or bent fins on the radiator or water pump problems.

During a retrofit, how much refrigerant charge do I use?

Answer: We suggest that you begin by charging the system with 90% of the original equipment's refrigerant capacity. Once this has been done, begin adjusting the charge utilizing temperature differential testing. The temperature differential testing procedures can be found in our Tips and Techniques book.

What is the difference between plate and fin and serpentine evaporators?

Answer: Serpentine evaporators have one flat continuous tube with many passes. They curve back and forth like a snake the entire length of the evaporator. Plate and fin evaporators have numerous plates that are separated by fins. The plates run the entire width of the evaporator and will be grouped in 3, 4 or 5 plates and are internally separated by baffles. The plates will have several small passes much like the serpentine. Plate and fin evaporators are the most efficient core offered today.